Buying a second-hand caravan: what actually matters

Most second-hand caravans in South Africa are sold by people who stopped using them. That's good - it means they've usually been sitting somewhere, not destroyed on long-distance trips. It also means deferred maintenance, neglect, and water ingress you won't see until the first heavy rain.

This is the checklist to go through before handing over money. If you need a caravan service workshop to do a pre-purchase inspection, that's also money well spent.

Water damage first. Always.

Water damage is the caravan-killer. A caravan with structural water damage is not worth buying at any price below what you'd pay to gut and rebuild it.

Check every corner of every wall - inside and outside. Look for staining, soft panels, and that particular musty smell that means water's been there a while. Push on the lower side walls and floor with your hands. If there's any give, walk away.

The roof seals are where water gets in. Check every seam, every skylight fitting, every antenna base. If the seals are cracking or lifting, assume water has already entered.

On older caravans (pre-2010), check the floor under the kitchen and bathroom. These areas stay wet from leaks and spills and the ply can be completely rotten while the visible surfaces look fine. Stick a screwdriver into the floor boards in the corners. It should resist.

The chassis

Get under it. Seriously. Bring a torch and a magnet. Surface rust on a steel chassis is normal; deep pitting or flaking is not. The tow hitch, coupling, and jockey wheel mounting points need to be solid. These are safety-critical components.

Check the spring hangers. On older A-frame caravans they rust from the inside. If they look rough, budget for replacement.

Tyres and brakes

Caravan tyres age from UV even when they're not being used. A tyre that looks fine with plenty of tread can still be dangerously cracked on the sidewall. Check the manufacture date (it's moulded into the sidewall, four digits: week/year). Anything over 5 to 6 years should be budgeted for replacement.

Electric brakes: test them before you buy. The brake controller in the tow vehicle should show a reading when the magnet is engaged. No reading means the magnets are worn or the wiring has a fault.

Gas and electrics

The gas system needs a valid CoC (Certificate of Compliance) for the sale to be legal in South Africa. If there isn't one, the seller needs to get it done - not you, them. No CoC means no compliant sale.

Check every 12V fitting: lights, USB points, water pump. They're cheap to fix individually and a sign of overall maintenance standard if multiple things are dead.

The 220V hookup socket and internal sockets should be tested. Bring a simple plug tester.

What to pay

A roadworthy, watertight Sprite or Jurgens from the early 2000s in good condition is worth R35 000 to R55 000 in 2026, depending on size and extras. A Safari or Gypsey in the same condition might be R10 000 less. Anything priced much below that bracket, either there's something wrong or the seller doesn't know what they have.

If the price is low and everything checks out, get a professional inspection anyway. Around R1 500 for a caravan inspection from a specialist is money well spent. For new units, caravan dealers can give you a benchmark on current pricing.

Negotiating

Every fault you find is a negotiating point. Write them down as you inspect. Come back with a list and a revised offer. Most private sellers in South Africa expect some negotiation and a genuine inspection report gives you the leverage.